The announcement of the closure of the ready-to-wear house of Rochas sent shockwaves through the fashion industry. How could a designer that nearly single-handedly (Elbaz excluded) redefined modern elegance via his dramatic perfume bottled-inspired gowns be tossed to the fashion carnivores?
Credit Photos: Women’s Wear DailyBut much to the collective sigh of fashion junkies everywhere. it wasn’t long before fashion insiders came to their senses. Theyskens was quickly nabbed for the top job at Nina Ricci and this is all that’s been leaked since the news several months back. So it’s remarkably exciting to see the first workings of this highly-anticipated “new” Theyskens.
According to Women’s Wear Daily (
www.wwd.com), the Pre-Fall line exhibits “graceful, mannish tailoring and deceptively complicated, often curved cuts – including “half-bias” work – that result in seemingly nonchalant shapes: a black cocktail dress, its off-kilter twists barely perceptible, and suits with precision diagonal seams.”For some, who are more partial to Theysken’s history of producing evening RTW which verges into couture territory, these simple, minimalist daywear pieces may leave you a little uninspired. But there’s something to be said about Theysken’s intuition; After all, he was the one to bring hook and eye closures into mainstream consciousness and recognize the time had come to once again celebrate prettiness.
The latter history of the Rochas house questions not the talent of Theyskens, but rather makes a truthful statement about modern dress. We may not want or have the need for a long gown, but we still want Theyskens.
