With cloche on hand – or rather, on head – it was a clear, defined message: Conservatively balloon-sleeved, tubular through the midsection, and coming to a structured flourish just above the knee. It was a silhouette that dominated the spring collections and luckily for the Proenza Schouler boys, was not the bread and butter point of their fall collection.
Their strength, instead, was the innovative details and fabrics- the woven-like pleating creating almost a trompe l’oeil dress-over-dress look, square studded trimming across hems and collars, and graphic, connect-the-dots-esque beading on dresses. With the eyes barely visible from beneath the brims, the focus shifted to the Hitchcock-approved red lips, and a somber palette of rich charcoals, olives, blacks, and washed-out jewel tones, the sensibility was one of a shrouded mystery. Was it two dresses, worn one over the other? Was it attached or removable?
The boys also offered up sumptuous outwear, trimmed in fur, toggled, and richly fabricated with a myriad of finishes. Shiny and matte, studded and smooth, voluminous and linear were crafted together into what could have been one dangerously overworked double-breasted coat. Instead, the result was decidedly chic.
It was moving, deeply alluring, and offered enough panache to make the gimmicky hats look – well- not-so-gimmicky.