In the discussion of young (relatively) meat and fashion, everyone and their cousin seems to be predicting – or at least attempting to – the next designer to truly breakthrough. If it matters at all, and I’ve said it before, my bets are on Sophia Kokosalaki, the Athens-born, Central Saint Martin’s grad who just assumed the reigns at Vionnet. There’s a detailing and a sense of craftsmanship in her work that sparkles brightest when her own vision drives the car.
This season, however, she seemed to be relying less on her own vision and more on what others are doing. The roped blouse resembled those done by Tisci at Givenchy, while the definite Lanvin influence could not be ignored (the colour pairings, the graphic black straps). That said, the detailing – from the compactly pleated peplum skirts to the body swirling cocktail dresses – suggested an awareness of the minutest not observed amongst her peers.
Only when she channels this talent into a unique vision will the full, and captivating, power of Kokosalaki be recognized.
Credit Photos: Style.com
