While 26-year-old french couturier Maxime Simoens may be best known, at least to most, for the purple silk dress that Beyoncé wore on the cover of her “Deluxe” album (below), it was his Fall 2011 Couture collection that piqued my interest in him, not for its perfection, but for its promise. Unfortunately, he didn’t have Bey’s airbrushing pit team (literally, in this case! #LULZ) to blur, liquefy and smooth his actual clothes within an inch of their lives.
So, while we can feel a Dereon vibe emanating ever-so-slightly from his first Spring ’12 jumpsuit (below left), we still like it, and the rest of the collection as a whole did feel stronger than his last, even with a few missteps. This young gun is worth keeping tabs on.
I have to say, the “office-meets-clubwear” vibe of the matchy bandeau pantsuit shown above right is so bad it’s good- Mondo 2000 goes to a board meeting. Although I wish the pants were even wider. WHERE WILL IT GO NEXT?
One thing I can respect is that this entire collection wasn’t Beyoncéfied beyond all reason; if I was a designer of this age and ilk, and an enormous celebrity wore one of my dresses in such a prominent fashion, I would be tempted to design my entire next showing with a similar client in mind. That pitfall (#LULZ AGAIN) was successfully avoided, with gowns like this interesting orange number (above left) and chic black piece (above right) in flattering silhouettes that come readily accessorized with color and texture.
These last looks, for the red carpet Vulcan in you, are both simple and complex at once, and much like the rest of the collection, seem best fit for a woman who is comfortable not adding chandelier earrings and Kardashian eyeliner to an evening look. Worn simply with a slick shoe and diamond studs, there are a lot of appealing options Simoens presents here, options that have enough going on to become muddy when weighed down with much else other than confidence. Or, in Beyoncé’s case, a lot of photoshopping.
*It MUST BE NOTED for no purpose other than to appease my own rage how passionately and pointedly I despise the curved accent aigu on the “É” in “Beyoncé” on the cover of Deluxe. Gross.